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Fabric tensile and tear strength: what a buyer's spec actually means

Updated 2026-10

Added 2026-10-04 from trending overseas buyer search questions. We update this centre daily.

On this page
  • Tensile and tear are not the same number
  • How tensile strength is measured
  • How tear strength is measured
  • What to put in your specification
  • How we handle it

Tensile and tear are not the same number

Buyers often ask "is the fabric strong?" — but strength shows up as two separate measurements on a spec sheet:

A fabric can score high on one and modest on the other, so a purchase order that names only "strength" is incomplete. Both are reported separately for warp and weft — woven cloth is stronger in one direction than the other.

How tensile strength is measured

Both common methods pull a specimen in a universal testing machine until it breaks; they differ in how the specimen is gripped:

MethodWhat it gripsCommon standard
StripFull width of a ~50 mm specimenISO 13934-1 (also ASTM D5035)
GrabOnly a central ~25 mm band of a wider stripISO 13934-2 / ASTM D5034

Results are reported in newtons (N) — older US reports may use pounds-force or kilogram-force, sometimes per width such as N/50 mm. Before any pull, the sample is conditioned at about 20 °C and 65% relative humidity for at least 24 hours, because moisture changes the number.

The grab result is typically 20–40% higher than the strip result on the same cloth, because the surrounding yarns help carry the load. That is why the two are never interchangeable — always name the method in the order.

How tear strength is measured

Tear testing starts the specimen with a cut or slit, then measures the force to propagate that rip:

Results are also in newtons (some labs quote grams-force or millinewtons). Tear strength matters most for lightweight wovens (think downproof, ripstop) and anywhere a snag is likely; twill weaves tend to resist tearing better than plain weaves of the same weight.

What to put in your specification

A complete strength line names three things: the test method, the direction (warp and weft), and the minimum you will accept. For planning only, independent labs commonly cite as general guidance — not a guarantee — values such as tensile (strip) above about 200 N for light apparel and 400 N for workwear, and tear (Elmendorf) above about 8 N for lightweight and 15 N for medium-weight wovens. Your buyer's technical pack sets the real number; do not assume any generic figure applies to your garment.

For knitted fabrics, tensile and tear are often replaced by bursting strength (ISO 13938 / ASTM D3786, Mullen method, reported in kPa), which better reflects how a knit fails.

How we handle it

Because we weave, dye and finish on one integrated site, strength is largely set at fabric design — yarn count, weave structure and density — and we hold it consistent across the run rather than adjusting after the fact. We test to the named standard on your order and report warp and weft separately. Specific achievable levels for your construction are confirmed in writing at enquiry (available on request) — we will not quote a strength number we have not verified for your cloth.

Strength sits alongside the other checks we publish: the 4-point inspection, pilling & Martindale abrasion, and shade sorting. Our chemical and fibre certifications (OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI) are listed on the compliance page; enquiry email is gxy@ntboerli.com.

Common questions

Is a higher tensile number always better?

Not for your budget. Strength should follow the garment: overdressing a shirting with workwear-grade minima adds cost and stiffness for no benefit. The useful question is whether the cloth meets your end use, not how high the number goes. And a grab figure and a strip figure are different measurements, not a high-versus-low contest.

Why report warp and weft separately?

Woven cloth is anisotropic — it is usually stronger in one direction than the other, sometimes by a wide margin. A single averaged number describes neither, and a weak weft can fail in use even if the warp is excellent. Specifications therefore list both, and our reports do too.

Can I compare an ASTM grab result to an ISO strip result?

No. On the same cloth the grab method reads higher than the strip method because nearby yarns share the load. Substituting one for the other without the buyer's written sign-off is a common cause of shipment holds. Always state the exact method in the purchase order.

Do you provide strength test reports?

Yes, to the standard named on your order, with warp and weft reported separately. The specific levels we can achieve for your construction are confirmed in writing at enquiry (available on request) — we only state numbers we have actually verified for that cloth.

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