Added 2026-09-28 from trending overseas buyer search questions. We update this centre daily.
Buyers often ask for "a high Martindale number" and assume it also means "won't pill". It usually does not. The word Martindale turns up in two separate standards because both use the same circular-rub (figure-of-eight / Lissajous) testing machine:
Different test, different number, different meaning. Confusing the two is the most common spec error we see at enquiry.
Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibre on the fabric surface, triggered by friction during wear and washing. It is driven upstream, long before the garment ships:
| Driver | Effect on pilling |
|---|---|
| Fibre length | Shorter staple fibres work loose more easily; longer-staple and filament fibres resist pilling. |
| Fibre blend | Polyester-cotton blends are notorious: the stronger synthetic holds the pill in place instead of letting it shed. |
| Yarn twist | Tighter twist locks fibres in the yarn; low twist leaves ends exposed. |
| Construction | Open, loose weaves and brushed / raised / loop-pile surfaces expose more fibre ends. |
| Finishing | Skipping singeing, shearing or bio-polishing leaves loose surface fibre that later tangles. |
Knits, fleece and brushed cloth pill more readily than dense woven poplin or twill — but every construction still depends on the controls above.
After the ISO 12945-2 rub, the sample is compared to a set of reference photographs:
| Grade | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 5 | No, or negligible, pilling (best) |
| 4 | Slight pilling |
| 3 | Moderate pilling |
| 2 | Noticeable pilling |
| 1 | Severe pilling (worst) |
Grade 4 and above is generally accepted for upholstery; apparel buyers set their own target by end use and market. North-American buyers may use ASTM D3512 (random tumble pilling) and China uses GB/T 4802 — confirm which method your spec names, because the grade is meaningless without it.
ISO 12947 reports a cycle (rub) count to a defined end point. The part you specify decides what is being measured:
| Part | End point | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| Part 2 | Breakage — two yarns broken in a woven cloth | Structural durability (workwear, upholstery) |
| Part 3 | Colour change | Appearance retention |
| Part 4 | Surface change (pilling / fuzzing) | Surface aesthetics (knits, brushed cloth) |
Two test loads apply: 9 kPa for apparel and household textiles (excluding upholstery and bedlinen), 12 kPa for workwear, upholstery, bedlinen and technical use. As a general industry reference, banding runs: decorative under 10,000 rubs; light domestic 10,000-15,000; general domestic 15,000-25,000; heavy 25,000-40,000; contract 40,000+; severe contract 50,000+. The US equivalent is ASTM D4966 (Martindale); note Martindale is not directly comparable to the Wyzenbeek double-rub test.
A cloth can withstand 30,000 rubs yet pill at grade 2 — especially a polyester-cotton blend with short-staple fibre. Abrasion and pilling are different failure modes: one is "how long until it wears through", the other is "how soon does fuzz ball up". For knits, brushed fabric and apparel in high-friction zones (underarms, side seams, cuffs), specify both an abrasion figure and a pilling grade.
As an integrated woven mill — yarn dyeing, weaving, fabric dyeing, printing and finishing on one site — we manage pilling and abrasion at the source: fibre selection, yarn twist and weave density, plus finishing such as singeing, shearing and bio-polishing (enzyme treatment). We test the specific construction before bulk and confirm the achievable grade or rub count for your market. These are physical performance specifications and are separate from our chemical / sustainability certificates (OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI).
Minimum order is 2,000 metres per colour; sampling is charged and credited against the bulk order; lead time is confirmed in writing at enquiry. Tell us the grade or rub count your market expects on the quote request, and we will confirm what the construction can deliver.
No. The Martindale rub count (ISO 12947) measures abrasion to breakdown; pilling is a separate 1-5 visual grade, usually ISO 12945-2. A fabric can score high rubs yet pill early, particularly poly-cotton blends.
State the failure criterion: breakage (Part 2) for structural durability, colour change (Part 3) for appearance, surface change (Part 4) for pilling / fuzzing. For apparel and brushed or knit goods, pair the abrasion spec with a pilling test (ISO 12945-2).
Grade 4 and above is generally accepted for upholstery. Apparel buyers set their own target by end use and market. Always record the method, cycles and grade in the tech pack before bulk.
Partly. Finishing such as singeing, shearing and bio-polishing reduces surface fibre and lifts the grade. The bigger levers are upstream: longer-staple fibre, combed yarns, tighter twist and a denser weave.