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Moisture Management & Wicking: What AATCC 79, 197 and 195 Actually Measure

Updated 2026-09

Added 2026-09-30 from trending overseas buyer search questions. We update this centre daily.

On this page
  • What 'moisture-wicking' really means
  • Three AATCC tests buyers should know
  • Wicking is not drying, and not breathability
  • What affects wicking in a woven fabric
  • How we handle moisture management at the mill

What 'moisture-wicking' really means

On a spec sheet, 'moisture-wicking' usually describes a fabric's ability to move liquid sweat away from the skin and spread it on the outer face so it can evaporate. The mechanism is capillary action: liquid is pulled through the tiny connected spaces between and within fibres and yarns. A common misunderstanding is that a 'wicking' fabric must be absorbent. It does not. Cotton absorbs and holds water (it gets heavy and stays wet); polyester, being hydrophobic, does not absorb but can transport liquid quickly through channel-shaped yarn surfaces and fabric structure. So wicking is about movement, not storage.

Because the word is used loosely in marketing, the only reliable way to compare fabrics is with standardised test methods. Three AATCC methods cover the most important parts of the picture.

Three AATCC tests buyers should know

AATCC 79 — surface wetting (the drop test)

A single drop of distilled water is placed on the fabric surface. The time until the droplet loses its reflective sheen and 'wets in' is recorded in seconds. This measures initial absorption speed at a single point. A fabric with a hydrophilic finish typically shows a very short time (a commonly cited benchmark for performance finishes is under 3 seconds; 10 seconds or more is generally considered poor). The method is simple and good for a quick go/no-go screen, but it does not tell you how far or how fast moisture then travels across the cloth.

AATCC 197 — vertical wicking (capillary rise)

A vertical strip of fabric has its lower edge in a liquid reservoir. The height the liquid climbs by capillary action is measured after set times (for example 5, 10 and 30 minutes). This shows how well moisture transports along the fabric — useful for comparing similar constructions. Results are distance and time, not a single performance grade.

AATCC 195 — liquid moisture management (MMT)

This is the most complete single test for directional moisture behaviour. A test solution (typically a synthetic sweat) is dropped at the centre of a specimen held between concentric sensor rings on the top and bottom faces. Instruments log how the liquid wets, spreads and transfers from the skin side (top) to the outer side (bottom). It produces several indices — wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetted radius, spreading speed, and a one-way transport value (OWTC) — combined into an Overall Moisture Management Capability (OMMC) index from 0 to 1. Each index is also graded 1–5 (1 = poor, 5 = excellent).

Representative OMMC bands (thresholds vary slightly by standard revision and lab): below 0.2 = poor, 0.2–0.4 = fair, 0.4–0.6 = good, 0.6–0.8 = very good, above 0.8 = excellent. A grade 3 (good) is generally acceptable for casual activewear; grades 4–5 (very good to excellent) suit training and competition wear. When a supplier quotes a grade, ask for the full test report and the OMMC value, not just the headline number.

Wicking is not drying, and not breathability

These three properties are frequently confused but are measured separately:

When you specify a performance fabric, decide which of these you actually need and request the matching test, rather than trusting the 'wicking' label.

What affects wicking in a woven fabric

How we handle moisture management at the mill

Nantong Huayuan Textile Co., Ltd. is an integrated woven mill founded in 1995 in Nantong, Jiangsu, China, covering yarn dyeing, weaving, fabric dyeing, printing and finishing in-house. Our woven range includes poplin, twill, canvas, oxford, chambray and yarn-dyed shirting.

Woven fabrics can be engineered for moisture management — for example performance shirting or technical workwear cloth using hydrophilic finishes, channel cross-section yarns, or dual-face constructions. Because achievable levels depend on fibre, construction and finish, we confirm the specific route and any testable performance per order in writing; if you need a target AATCC 195 grade or AATCC 79 wetting time, state it at enquiry and we will advise feasibility. We hold OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS, OCS and BCI certifications (certificate numbers available on request).

Order basics: minimum order is 2,000 metres per colour; sampling is paid but fully deducted against the bulk order; lead time varies by product type and is confirmed in writing at enquiry. For a moisture-management specification on a woven cloth, contact gxy@ntboerli.com.

Common questions

Is a fabric that absorbs water fast the same as a wicking fabric?

No. Absorption means holding liquid (cotton is the classic example); wicking means moving it away through capillaries (e.g. channel-shaped polyester). AATCC 79 measures absorption speed at a point, while AATCC 195 measures directional transport and one-way movement from skin side to outer face.

What AATCC 195 grade should I specify?

Grade 3 (good) is generally acceptable for casual activewear; grades 4-5 (very good to excellent) suit training and competition wear. Always request the full test report and the OMMC value, not just the headline grade.

Can a woven fabric be moisture-wicking, or is that only for knits?

Both. Wovens such as performance shirting or technical workwear cloth can be engineered with hydrophilic finishes, channel cross-section yarns, or dual-face push-pull constructions. The achievable level should be confirmed per order.

Does 'wicking' mean the fabric dries fast?

Not automatically. Wicking moves moisture; drying is a separate property measured by AATCC 201. Cotton wets quickly but dries slowly, so ask for both wicking and drying data when performance matters.

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