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Fabric width: nominal vs usable (cuttable) width and selvedge loss

Updated 2026-09

Added 2026-09-27 from trending overseas buyer search questions. We update this centre daily.

On this page
  • Two widths on every roll: nominal and usable
  • Greige width vs finished width
  • Width-wise shrinkage is a separate risk
  • Common woven widths buyers meet
  • Compare price by area, not by metre
  • How to specify width to a mill

Two widths on every roll: nominal and usable

A fabric is always measured selvedge-to-selvedge — the full width from one finished edge to the other. That is the nominal width you see on a bolt or a spec line. But the two woven edges, the selvedges, are tighter and often carry pinholes or mill marks, so they are not where you place a pattern piece. The usable (or cuttable) width is what sits between the selvedges, and it is the only number that drives your marker and your yield.

Selvedge edges typically take about 1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in) per side, so a roll quoted '150 cm' usually yields roughly 146–148 cm of cuttable width. If you plan your layout on the nominal number, you quietly lose a few centimetres on every panel — and on a production run that adds up to real metres of cloth.

Greige width vs finished width

Woven cloth is wider off the loom (greige or loomstate width) than after dyeing and finishing. Wet processing relaxes the fibres and the stenter frame sets the final width, so the finished width can be several centimetres — sometimes several inches — narrower than the greige width. As a rule of thumb reported by mills: a cotton twill may lose 3–5 inches (about 8–13 cm) greige-to-finished; viscose challis can lose 6–8 inches; a polyester chiffon barely moves. Always specify and confirm the finished cuttable width, not the greige width — greige is an internal weaving number, not what lands on your cutting table.

Width-wise shrinkage is a separate risk

Even after finishing, some fabrics relax further in the wash, and that relaxation is mostly in the width direction. A cloth that measures 150 cm cuttable off the roll can drop to 145 cm or less after the first home wash, tightening the garment across the chest and hips. The mill controls this with residual-shrinkage finishing; ask for the width-shrinkage figure and the test method on the specification. Our shrinkage testing is covered in the shrinkage andamp; dimensional stability guide.

Common woven widths buyers meet

Nominal widthTypical use
89–91 cm (35–36 in)Narrow shirting and lining cloths
140–152 cm (54–60 in)Most apparel shirting and suiting — the workhorse range
160–180 cm (63–71 in)Wider cloths for coats, jackets, home textiles

At Nantong Huayuan we weave shirting, poplin, twill, oxford, chambray and yarn-dyed cloth in-house, and we quote the finished cuttable width on every order — greige numbers stay inside our weaving department. The exact width for a construction is confirmed in writing at enquiry.

Compare price by area, not by metre

Two fabrics at different widths are not the same amount of cloth per metre. Before you compare a quote, divide the price per metre by the width in metres to get price per square metre — or, better, ask how many garments you get per 100 metres at your marker. Going from a 115 cm cloth to a 150 cm cloth can add roughly 28–35% more usable area per metre, often letting a cutting table fit an extra piece across the roll with no extra length. Width is a costing lever, not a footnote.

How to specify width to a mill

  1. State the finished cuttable width you need, not '60-inch fabric' (which a supplier may read as selvedge-to-selvedge and deliver narrow).
  2. Ask for the selvedge loss and the tolerance band — a width with no tolerance is incomplete.
  3. Request the width-shrinkage result and test method on the spec.
  4. Confirm everything in the first written reply; our MOQ is 2,000 metres per colour and sampling is charged then credited against the bulk order.

Send the end use and target width through the quote request, or email gxy@ntboerli.com. We hold OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS, OCS and BCI; certificate numbers are available on request.

Common questions

Does '60-inch fabric' mean I get 60 inches of usable width?

Usually not. '60-inch' is normally the selvedge-to-selvedge (nominal) width; the usable cuttable width is a few centimetres less after the selvedges are excluded. Always ask for the cuttable width in writing.

Why is the fabric narrower than the width I ordered?

Most likely the quote was read as greige/loomstate width, or as nominal rather than cuttable. Greige cloth shrinks several centimetres during dyeing and finishing. Specify finished cuttable width and confirm it at enquiry to avoid the gap.

How do I compare two fabrics of different widths fairly?

Divide price per metre by width in metres to get price per square metre, or ask for garments-per-100-metres at your marker. Width changes usable area a lot, so price-per-metre alone is misleading.

Can width shrink after I receive the fabric?

Yes, some cloth relaxes further in the width direction on the first wash. Ask for the width-shrinkage result and test method on the specification so you can plan the marker on the post-wash width.

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